A New Chapter Begins

As we left the beaches and volcanoes of Southern Nicaragua our next stop was to visit the two colonial towns of Granada and Leon. After the colonial history burst we planned to visit the highlands of Nicaragua, to a town called Esteli, and thus complete our set of the travelling hotpot of altitudes, climates and adventure. Although a very much subconscious decision at the time, in hindsight it was evident that we were searching. Searching for what, we weren’t sure; some energy, some drive to carry on, a rise out of a travelling slump that we found ourselves in, some passion and excitement at the wonderful cultures and views that we were experiencing. We had left Costa Rica a mere 8 days ago before entering the cobbled streets of Granada, but something in us had changed. We were tired. Tired both mentally and physically. The gregarious imposing churches were no longer exciting, intriguing or gregariously imposing. The lakes, volcanoes, hills, town squares, museums, local food, beers, cultures and people were either becoming common place or annoying. We didn’t have the enthusiasm or drive that we started out with, the enthusiasm or drive that bought us to these far off magical lands, the enthusiasm or drive to get excited about the next city or town. We wanted to give these amazing places more of our time and passion, but were finding it increasingly hard to find that energy as easily as waking up and being enthused about the day ahead. We were in the travelling blues! I’d been in them before, seen them before in other people, experienced them first hand; this weird phenomenon that around the three to four month mark of a long trip backpackers loose the focus and wonder what they are doing. Some of the time people come out of them; sometimes they don’t and leave early, other times people carry on in vain attempts to find the lost passion that they had when they first jumped off the initial plane into the adventure that awaited them. We knew we had to do something and spent a few nights over a few beers talking about what we personally wanted over the next 2-3 months. Our plans changed almost hourly, some purely through hypothetical conversations, some more defined and purposeful like trying to buy bus tickets to Panama, and others through research with twenty different flight prices and times open on the laptop. What did we want? We came to two conclusions. Firstly that we needed a change; be that in culture, lifestyle, or continent, and secondly that we needed an end date. We realised mentally we needed a stop point, not a vague open-ended season that we might be home, but a flight booked home, or at least to some next stage in our journey. We battled these inner demons for a wile before coming to the conclusion that travelling through Central America was coming to an end for us. With my mum and uncle arriving into Mexico for a holiday we used that as a date to meet up with them, and then devised extraordinary plans afterwards of myself flying to New Zealand then onto Vancouver to see my sister and friends respectively, with Han flying to Tel Aviv to visit a friend who had moved there previously and she hadn’t seen for a while, before both meeting back up in the UK near the end of February. Suddenly our journey to far away lands sprang back to life. We had an end point, a focus, a drive, a goal to work towards; the grass started to grew greener on our side of the fence, the sun was not a hot sweat inducing annoyance, but a warmth giving ball of energy, and we were once again motivated, intoxicated with excitement of what was to come and what had come to pass. We made future plans...

Nicaragua – The Beginning

Nicaragua, the largest of the countries in the Central American isthmuses, a very much up and coming destination for backpackers and holiday tourists, is often cited in magazines and websites as a top holiday destination to discover and explore. It was a renewed sense of adventure that we passed through customs and border control relatively hassle free, jumped on a bus after shoving off insistent taxi drivers, and made our way to San Juan Del Sur. Zipping past kilometres of wind farms that had been constructed in the last couple of years as part of the governments promise to decrease air pollution, we passed the hour happily scenery and people watching from our old American yellow school bus. We were heading North along the Pan American Highway with views of two majestic volcanoes on our right, with the Pacific ocean somewhere in the unseeing distance on our left making our way to Rivas, a city where we were to change buses for another smaller local bus to our final destination. After jumping off the bus and walking to the other bus station, we were, as usual, harassed by a host of taxi drivers who had dollar signs in their eyes as they saw another two gringo’s. We had read that often it can be cheaper if you get four of you in a taxi from Rivas to San Juan Del Sur, so we bartered and negotiated a price that we were willing to pay for two of us. Sure it was more than two bus rides would have been, but it would be direct to our hostel and a lot more convenient and comfy. Being surprised by one taxi driver who seemed considerably cheaper than everyone else, we checked, double checked and triple checked the price and destination, but he seemed to be sticking to the low monetary figure, and we figured that he just wanted the business. Move forward 5 minutes and you would have seen me leaning out of a taxi car door as it trundled along a busy street, slowly but perceptively moving into barren areas, shouting at the taxi driver to stop and causing a commotion, as Han fretted over a large knife the taxi driver had just displayed on the seat next to him. Magically and amazingly the price had just doubled as soon as we made about 100m from taxi rank that we were understandably unwilling to pay. Shouting in our pigeon Spanish that we wanted to get a bus and let us out, it was with nervous requests that the taxi driver got out and opened the boot for us to get our bags. We walked back the 300m to the bus station; we were surprisingly calm and serene about the whole situation. If we had managed to get to more desolate areas a couple of minutes further down the road, things might have been different, but opening the door and shouting whilst still in relative busy streets seemed to have sorted out the situation and 10 minutes later we were on a bus to San Juan Del Sur reading the guide books about the up-and-coming surfer beach town. Over our two nights at this black hole of a down under backpacker area; Aussies seemed to converge on the party driven “Funday Sunday” town to never escape and be lost in an eternal struggle of finding themselves on a bus out of there but not missing the next big party, we stayed at a hostel with an amazing infinity pool overlooking the ocean that was renowned for parties, as well as a downtown sandy floored type A backpacker abode. The main highlight though was the main reason that we wanted to visit the area, the Olive Ridley Turtles and their arribadas. In only 7 places over the world a phenomenon known as an arribada happens; thousands upon thousands of turtles converge on...

Los Cobanos

With the only tourists in sight, we jumped off our old American yellow school bus into the dirt track at the edge of Los Cobanos. Not being suddenly bombarded by touts, taxi’s and tourette driven money changers was a breath of fresh air, and we were soon realizing that El Salvador is an often missed out gem in the backpacker circuit. The minus side however is that Spanish speaking is a must when you’re trying to find a hostel of choice, or directions to somewhere that can house two weary travellers for a couple of nights. On the plus side though, everyone is so helpful and friendly it wasn’t long before we were walking along the beach, stepping over the ropes that were holding boats at bay along the coast, through dark shack alleyways that lined the ocean-lapping sand and through to the other side of this isolated fishing village to one of the hostels that the Bible (the Lonely Planet) mentioned. We were quickly shown our room (a dorm to ourselves) on this beach fronted ‘probably-was-beautiful-when-it-was-built-20-years-ago-but-is-now-a-bit-in-need-of-repair-and-love’ hostel, just in time for sunset and some pupusa’s on the beach. Please specify a Flickr ID for this gallery The fishing village of Los Cobanos is small, so small in fact that you can wander its 2km length in 20mins, and it could be roughly described as two distinct parts; the slightly more upmarket shack esque ‘bars’ and hotels, and the slightly more down-to-earth fisherman’s wharf, both of which are comprised of walking along the beach, or through and around its shacks and houses that are thrown up randomly along the coast. The fisherman’s wharf gives you cheaper food, real hard-graft life and straight-from-the-ocean fish sales, along with some stares and laughs, where as the other...

Firework Ridden Bulls

We crossed the border of Guatemala into the lands of El Salvador with open minds and ready backpacks. El Salvador is an often avoided backpacker destination, with travellers opting to shoot through it on a nice cosy bus, flying out the other side into Nicaragua unscathed and hassle free. The very nature of this though is what bought us to this intriguing country; we were looking forward to getting off the Gringo trail, experiencing towns and cities where tourists were infrequent and where our lingual dexterity would be put to the test. Our adventure though didn’t start well. After clearing customs and wondering why no stamp was needed in the passport, we alighted at San Salvador bus terminal to be greeted by obnoxious money driven taxi drivers who knew they were our only option of finding our hostel of choice. After some fierce negotiations and joining up with another foreigner we settled on a price and headed on our way. It left a slightly bitter taste in our mouth; that the first contact with El Salvadorians was mixed with greed and stubbornness, but nevertheless we arrived at our hostel around 10:30pm and crashed out with thoughts on moving on quickly the next day, heading West to the town of Juayua. The backpackers privilege of freedom and drastic life altering decisions being made on the fly, however, was bought into play the next morning as we chatted to our host and made internet checks on transport options throughout the country. Although roads exist like a spider web of connectivity throughout the land, in a twist on the ancient Roman proverb, all roads lead to San Salvador, which means that any links from one stop to another would involve a change in El Salvador’s capital. We altered our plans that morning and decided instead to head to Suchitoto a few hours North, allowing us to hit the beach town of Los Cobanos before finally settling at Juayua the next weekend – giving us plenty of time to experience the food festival that the town is famous for. I hastily emailed the hostel I had booked in Juayua to change to the next weekend, and booked Han and I into, for our 5 year anniversary, what Lonely Planet described as … ‘Without a doubt this is one of the best places to stay in El Salvador. A posh boutique hotel set in a restored 200-year old home, high-end Salvadoran art, antique and modern furnishings, custom-made doors and several gurgling fountains set the scene for six immaculate rooms.’ I put my credit card details in, was amazed as again they were accepted by my grudgingly obliging bank, and we set off, the hotel a surprise. The rural farming population, 6 elderly smiling ranchos with their machetes slung across their backs, the colorful, the weird, the wonderful, and one other gringo, piled onto the market good laden bus and trundled North through the country. Stopping seemingly randomly for anyone who stuck out their hand, and some who didn’t, we slowly but perceptibly got more and more cramped until the ‘maximum 49 passenger’ stickered bus was holding around 90 people, before my vision got impaired by a man wielding a large broomstick that was a holder for another 25. Edging my backpack, my day sack, Han’s backpack, my juggling ‘fun bag’ and our food bag into tighter and tighter corners, trying to not be the stereotypical ‘annoying gringo who carries too much’, I got as comfy as possible and held on. Please specify a Flickr ID for this gallery Three hours later on the two-hour journey, with the bus slowly emptying as passengers jumped off at random grass strewn village lanes, we trundled into an amazing colonial town, piled the baggage onto our unwitting bodies and strolled down to the amazing hotel. We checked in, somewhat embarrassingly with our backpacks, smelly clothes and obvious biscuit...

Lago De Atitlan

In a break from my adjective strewn writing, and with an attempt to help you all catch up with our wanderings and amblings throughout Central America, this post comes to you in the form of pictures and simple sentences, just like when you were young. So sit back, get yourself a cup of tea, wait for the page to load up the pictures and enjoy…. Arrived at Lago de Atitlan in Panajachel. Energetic small tourist town on the edge of a beautiful lake. Met Ratita, the cutest little kitten who thought she was a tiger! 1st December. Ran the Lago de Atitlan Marathon. Coined as ‘One of the top ten hardest adventure marathons’ by ESPN, this gruelling marathon broke me. 42km with some ridiculous elevation gain, reaching 2500m at one point. Amazing though, just amazing. Han got her hair braided to fit in with the typical gringo traveller. Recouped and boated over to San Marcos with Richard and Bev (two other marathoners from Canada), a chilled out hippie esque town on the lake. Han and I moved to San Marcos for 3 nights. One night in a hostel with hard wooden beds, then moved to an amazing hotel for the same price round the corner. We relaxed, juggled, swam and ate out in this intriguing, holistic, vegan strewn, home grown town. Went on a beautiful run around the nearby hills around the lake. Got the boat to another town on the lake, San Pedro, and spent one night there, visiting a Friday Market at Santiago De Atitlan. Jumped on a mammoth journey, involving 4 buses and one border crossing to make our way to San Salvador, the capital El...