Nicaragua – The Beginning

Nicaragua, the largest of the countries in the Central American isthmuses, a very much up and coming destination for backpackers and holiday tourists, is often cited in magazines and websites as a top holiday destination to discover and explore. It was a renewed sense of adventure that we passed through customs and border control relatively hassle free, jumped on a bus after shoving off insistent taxi drivers, and made our way to San Juan Del Sur. Zipping past kilometres of wind farms that had been constructed in the last couple of years as part of the governments promise to decrease air pollution, we passed the hour happily scenery and people watching from our old American yellow school bus. We were heading North along the Pan American Highway with views of two majestic volcanoes on our right, with the Pacific ocean somewhere in the unseeing distance on our left making our way to Rivas, a city where we were to change buses for another smaller local bus to our final destination. After jumping off the bus and walking to the other bus station, we were, as usual, harassed by a host of taxi drivers who had dollar signs in their eyes as they saw another two gringo’s. We had read that often it can be cheaper if you get four of you in a taxi from Rivas to San Juan Del Sur, so we bartered and negotiated a price that we were willing to pay for two of us. Sure it was more than two bus rides would have been, but it would be direct to our hostel and a lot more convenient and comfy. Being surprised by one taxi driver who seemed considerably cheaper than everyone else, we checked, double checked and triple checked the price and destination, but he seemed to be sticking to the low monetary figure, and we figured that he just wanted the business. Move forward 5 minutes and you would have seen me leaning out of a taxi car door as it trundled along a busy street, slowly but perceptively moving into barren areas, shouting at the taxi driver to stop and causing a commotion, as Han fretted over a large knife the taxi driver had just displayed on the seat next to him. Magically and amazingly the price had just doubled as soon as we made about 100m from taxi rank that we were understandably unwilling to pay. Shouting in our pigeon Spanish that we wanted to get a bus and let us out, it was with nervous requests that the taxi driver got out and opened the boot for us to get our bags. We walked back the 300m to the bus station; we were surprisingly calm and serene about the whole situation. If we had managed to get to more desolate areas a couple of minutes further down the road, things might have been different, but opening the door and shouting whilst still in relative busy streets seemed to have sorted out the situation and 10 minutes later we were on a bus to San Juan Del Sur reading the guide books about the up-and-coming surfer beach town. Over our two nights at this black hole of a down under backpacker area; Aussies seemed to converge on the party driven “Funday Sunday” town to never escape and be lost in an eternal struggle of finding themselves on a bus out of there but not missing the next big party, we stayed at a hostel with an amazing infinity pool overlooking the ocean that was renowned for parties, as well as a downtown sandy floored type A backpacker abode. The main highlight though was the main reason that we wanted to visit the area, the Olive Ridley Turtles and their arribadas. In only 7 places over the world a phenomenon known as an arribada happens; thousands upon thousands of turtles converge on...